You lay artificial turf on soil by digging out the old lawn, building a firm, compacted base, adding a weed barrier, then laying and securing the turf with clean edges and tight seams.
If the ground underneath is soft or uneven, the top will sink, wrinkle, and hold water. In Sydney, after summer storms, poor prep shows up fast.
The team at Northside Tree and Garden aims to educate homeowners and DIY enthusiasts across the Northern Beaches and Sydney and it’s the same order of work our team follows when the job needs to look good and stay that way.
Before You Start Laying Artificial Turf…
Artificial grass is not “just roll it out.” The turf is the final layer. The base underneath is the lawn.
If you build a strong base, the turf feels firm underfoot, drains properly, and stays flat for years. If you don’t, it can look great for two weekends and then turn into a wavy mat with low spots you can’t unsee.
Timing also matters more than most people realise, if you are trying to avoid heavy rain or extreme heat. This is why you should always follow the seasonal advice on the best time to lay turf in Sydney.
Tools You Will Need for the Turf Laying Job
You can do this with hand tools, but you’ll save hours by hiring a plate compactor for the day. A good compacted base is what stops your turf from sinking later.
You’ll also want a shovel or turf cutter, a rake, a wheelbarrow, a string line, a tape measure, and a sharp utility knife with spare blades.
Materials that actually matter
For the base, use crushed rock/road base, then a thin top layer of crusher dust or decomposed granite to level it out. Add a geotextile weed membrane on top to separate the base from soil and reduce weed growth.
You will also need joining tape and turf glue for seams, galvanised pins or nails for edges, and edging (sleepers, steel edging, concrete, or pavers) so everything stays locked in.
How to Install Artificial Turf on Soil
Artificial turf can be installed directly over soil, but only if you build a solid base first. With the right excavation, compaction, and drainage fall, you will get a smooth lawn that stays flat and won’t hold water.
1) Mark the area and plan the “fall” for drainage
Start by marking your turf shape with paint or a hose line. Decide where the water will naturally run when it rains, and aim for a gentle fall away from the house.
If you already get puddles in this area, don’t ignore it. Turf won’t fix bad drainage. It hides it, then the smell and squelch show up later.
2) Remove the old lawn properly
Strip the grass, weeds, and as much root matter as you can. If you leave roots behind, you’ll get soft patches as they break down.
Dig down enough to make room for the base layers. Many install guides work within a typical dig depth around 75–100mm, depending on the finish height you want and your soil conditions.
3) Install edging early so the job finishes clean
Edging is what gives artificial turf that “tight” look. It also stops edges lifting over time.
In Sydney yards, sleepers are common, and pavers work well too, as long as they’re stable. The key is making sure the edge is straight (or smoothly curved) and sitting at the right finished height.
4) Build the sub-base (this is where the lawn is made)
Spread crushed rock or road base across the area. The base depth depends on use. Light foot traffic might sit closer to 50–75mm, while heavier areas tend to need more.
Now do the step most DIY jobs skip: compact it properly.
Run the plate compactor over the base in multiple passes. If it still feels “bouncy” when you walk on it, it’s not compacted enough. A stable base should feel solid, like a path.
5) Add a thin leveling layer for comfort and smoothness
Once your base is firm, add a thin top layer of crusher dust (or a similar fine material) to help you level and shape it.
This is your chance to fix small dips and get the surface looking clean. Take your time. The turf will mirror whatever you leave underneath.
6) Lay the weed membrane so soil can’t mix back into your base
Roll out geotextile fabric across the entire area. Overlap seams so there are no open gaps, and pin it down before it shifts.
A common recommendation is to overlap by at least 100mm, especially on join lines.
This step helps stop soil from migrating upward into your base over time, which keeps the turf surface stable.
7) Roll out the turf and let it relax
Unroll the artificial turf and leave it to settle for a short while. This helps it flatten out and makes trimming easier.
Pay attention to pile direction. Turf looks different depending on which way the blades lean, so keep every roll running the same way. That alone makes your lawn look more “real” and less patchy.
Choosing the right product is just as important as installing it properly, and the best turf type depends on sun, shade, pets, and foot traffic.
8) Trim Edges Slowly
Trim the turf to shape using a sharp blade, cutting from the back side where possible. Keep your cuts neat, especially around garden beds, stepping stones, and curved edging.
If you’re trimming around trees, don’t force the turf tight against a big trunk flare. Leave clean space so the tree stays healthy and you can tidy leaf drop easily.
9) Join Seams so they disappear
Seams are the first thing you notice when they’re done badly.
Bring the two turf edges together so they sit tight, then place joining tape underneath. Apply turf adhesive evenly, press down firmly, and weigh the seam while it cures.
A clean seam is simple: same pile direction, straight cut lines, no gaps, and no raised edges.
10) Secure the Perimeter so it doesn’t Move Later
Now pin the turf around the edges. Don’t rely on “it’s heavy enough.” Heat, foot traffic, and pets can shift turf over time if it isn’t fixed down.
Once it’s secure, brush the turf up with a stiff broom to lift the blades and tidy the finish.
11) Add Sand Infill if your Turf Needs it
Not every product needs infill, but many residential lawns do. Infill adds weight, supports the fibres, and helps the turf feel more stable underfoot.
Some Australian DIY guidance suggests around 5–8kg of kiln-dried silica sand per square metre for certain turf installs.
Always follow what your turf supplier recommends for your exact pile height.
The Turf Maintenance Part Most People Forget
Artificial turf stays nicer when you brush it every so often, especially on high-traffic strips. Research on synthetic turf performance has found that brushing and keeping infill at the right depth affects consistency and safety over time.
You don’t need to baby it. You just need to treat it like a surface that gets used. Clear leaves, rinse dust in dry weather, and brush it when it starts looking flat.
Final Note!
If you only remember one thing, remember this: the turf is the final layer, but the base is what you live with.
If you’d like a second set of eyes before you start digging, Northside Tree and Garden Services can help.
We are local to the Northern Beaches and Sydney, and our team has over 25 years of hands-on experience with outdoor spaces that need to handle real weather, real foot traffic, and real gardens.
Book a lawn review and we will tell you what your soil needs, how deep to excavate, and how to get a clean finish that lasts. Plus, we can do a 100% reliable service of laying the artifical turf for you.
People Also Ask
What base do I need to lay artificial turf on soil?
You need a compacted crushed rock or road base under artificial turf. It keeps the surface flat, improves drainage, and stops the turf from sinking over time.
How deep should I dig to lay artificial turf on soil?
A common dig depth is around 75–100mm, depending on your base build and finished height. Heavier foot traffic usually needs more base depth to stay stable.
Why do I need a weed membrane under artificial grass?
A geotextile weed membrane helps reduce weeds and stops soil mixing into your base layers. It also supports drainage when installed with proper overlaps.
How do I stop artificial turf from getting bumps and dips?
Bumps and dips usually happen when the base isn’t compacted or leveled properly. Build the base in layers, compact thoroughly, and smooth the final leveling layer before laying turf.
What sand infill should I use for synthetic turf?
Many residential lawns use kiln-dried silica sand infill if the turf product requires it. It helps the blades stand up and adds weight for a firmer feel underfoot.
How often should I brush artificial turf?
Brush it when the blades start to flatten, especially in walk paths or play areas. Research shows brushing and infill maintenance affect how consistent the surface feels over time.
